With a riot of colourful style and a show of women's flesh considered scandalous in this conservative Muslim country, models pranced down the catwalk in couture fashion that was elegant, racy and indelibly Pakistani.

In a country of daily terrorist attacks by Islamic extremists, Pakistani designers and models are challenging firebrand mullahs and Taliban insurgents by launching the country's first-ever "fashion week" in Karachi.

"There's so much more to Pakistan, it's not just suicide jackets and al-Qaeda," said Rizwan Beyg, a leading designer, who once dressed Diana, the late Princess of Wales. "It's defiance, sheer defiance. This is about saying, 'They're not going to threaten our lifestyle.' We want to show the world that we're survivors."

The four-day extravaganza kicked off Wednesday at the luxury Marriott hotel - the same hotel chain whose Islamabad branch was devastated by a truck bombing last year. Western evening dresses fused with eastern design, rich embroidery, silk tunics, feathery hats, lacy tops, along with radical interpretations of the traditional shalwar kameez, all floated down the catwalk.

But the international fashionistas who were to attend, including Miami Fashion Week head Beth Sobol, had to be turned away at the last moment, fearful that militants might strike. The event was originally scheduled for last month, but was hurriedly postponed when extremists attacked the military headquarters and the original venue backed out. Paramilitary Rangers were deployed around the new venue, which has taken on fortress-like security during the past two years as Pakistan has seen the number and scale of terrorist attacks grow.

Karachi, a city of around 17 million people, is Pakistan's financial capital and a melting pot of communities, including the largest Pashtun population of any city - the ethnic group that dominates Afghanistan and northwest Pakistan and makes up most of the Taliban. It also has many radical Islamic schools. But so far, the city been spared the worst of the terrorist violence in Pakistan. Paradoxically, many believe this is because of its extremist presence: the place is used by hardliners to lie low and as a conduit for funds, meaning that they wouldn't want to provoke a crackdown by causing trouble.

Pakistan has a sizable textile industry, but almost all of it is basic items such as socks, underwear and towels. Fashion hardly figures in the exports. Like Pakistani art and literature, fashion is just beginning to emerge on the international stage, with designers appearing in Milan this year for the first time. The prize for the best newcomer in Karachi is a free slot at Miami fashion week, but Ms. Sobol will now have to judge that award by watching video of the event online.